Saturday, March 23, 2013

OK. You are NOT going to believe this!

No shit.
I still can't believe it, and I was there.

Heidi and I had gotten a late start out of San Simeon this morning after a nice extended chat with the interesting French couple we met in the Hiker/Biker site (plus a little bike mechanic work); but we had put in about 55 miles and had ridden through some awesome towns (Cayucos [awesome fish tacos at Smokehouse!], Morro Bay, San Luis Obispo) - to arrive in Pismo. Now, I shouldn't dog the town too much as I have not really seen much of it yet - but we were trying to buy some basic groceries and all we could find at the "markets" were cigarettes and light beer. And some kids, I think, were trying to scam me outside the market that Heidi did end up getting some supplies in.
But, then we were on our way to the Pismo SP - CAMPGROUND FULL. And the officious lady at the entrance's most helpful info was "Morro Bay is 35 miles North - they have Hiker/Biker campsites".
So here we are, it's 6pm, we've ridden over 55 miles, and I'm personally getting cold, tired, hungry, thirsty, and yes, OK, cranky.

Here's the part you won't believe.

We were bikin' down Hwy 1, thinkin' "Shit. Where are we gonna sleep? Why the hell did we bike through so many nice places - and just keep on going?!" When all of a sudden someone yells "Greg Ferguson!"
No shit.
A cyclist going the other way, that I had lamely waved at, was turning around - and holy shit! Here comes Elicia Hildebrand! WTF? (OK. I'm too old to use that, but it seemed appropriate.)
Hilarious.
True.
And, really, it still brings a smile to my face when I think about Elicia and Joe's friendly faces in a town full of ATV's and motorheads. Awesome.

So now we're sitting in a county campground (the OTHER SP was also FULL!), drinking a big beer - even before we set up the tent. You gotta break your "rules" every once in a while, right!

Hiker/Biker camping in an RV Park

Our first full SP so we had to look for something else, close by, and preferably not in the direction we came from. So we are camping in an RV park by the hwy. Its actually not that bad, especially considering its Pismo Beach and its a Sat. night!

My daily view is pretty sweet!

Just like Tibet

Only, instead of a monastery up there, with prayer flags - it is a Spanish-style villa, with a stout fence (and security system)

#1 Sharks and large mammals ...

We are the Chinese tourists

I keep thinking that Heidi and I are the equivalent of the Chinese tourists that we saw in Tibet in August 2011, biking from Shanghai to Lhasa or the Tibetan side of Chomolungma (Everest Base Camp). They would then box their bikes up and take the train or fly home. We plan to bike all the way home, of course. But we keep reading about how the Spanish, then the Spanish/Mexicans, and now the Americans came to this region, "converted" the indigenous people to Catholicism, and mined, fished, logged the crap out of the place - all the while taking the wealth created from the natural resource extraction for themselves (and, of course, many/most of the indigenous people died from diseases introduced by the Europeans [who had resistance to many of the diseases they carried from living in close proximity to their domesticated livestock]). The Spanish "Mission system" "converted" the locals to Catholicism, had them move to the area of the mission, and work the fields.
The Chinese are making the nomadic Yak (etc) herders build permanent houses - and stop being nomadic.
The list goes on, of course.
But, I can't help but think that 100 or so years from now Tibet will have a lot more in common with CA - only the air will still be thinner - so there won't likely be as many Han Chinese there as there are European-Americans here.

Lunch at the fish taco stand in Cayucos

We've met so many interesting people at the Hiker/Biker campsites

Last night we met a couple from France heading to Vancouver Island (Professors who had travelled all over the world including Tibet 9x!) and a pair of young Scottish "boys" using gas station maps to bike to Vancouver. The night before we might 4 "girls" from Essen, Germany. And the night before that we met a UBC Professor biking with her teenage son for his spring break.

Some people stay completely to themselves, and just wave on the way out; others invite you into there vw camper for central american coffee and tips for free hot springs.

I'm not the most social person but I really have enjoyed meeting all the people.

Man, you wanna meet some interesting people?

Go camping in CA State Parks - esp the Hiker/Biker sites.
Last night/today at the Hiker/Biker sites in (Hearst) San Simeon SP there was one dude from WA state, a nice couple from France, a couple of young bucks from Scotland (we gave them our Northern section Adventure Cycling map - after hearing about some of their adventures so far on their way from LA to Vancouver), and one mystery man. Then, of course, there was us.

The amenities at the Hiker/Biker sites typically make you feel like the red-headed step-child (no showers nearby, no hot water at the sink in the WC, no hand dryers/paper towels), but the people are usually fascinating.
I mean how often can you talk to people from so many diverse lands? And discuss Chomsky, Zinn, and how the Communist Party of China are treating the Tibetan people compared to how, historically especially, the Tibetan royalty used to treat them?

After all that I whipped out "the other Zinn" (Lennard), and pointed out that the nice French woman's fork was on backwards - so we straightened it out - and her toes didn't hit the front tire when turning anymore.

I really hope to see some of these people again someday...

Friday, March 22, 2013

I have found my favourite road!

Riding south on highway 1 with a tailwind and a pacific coast view has got to be my favourite road to bike! We have been absolutely spoiled!

Tonight's sunset

The tent is set up, the sleeping pads and bags are laid out.
Time to sit on the beach and drink a cold one while the waves turn the granite into sand...

Prayer flags

I thought a lot about Tibet yesterday/today. It was beautiful, and the mountains rose on our left like the ocean wasn't even there. I was thinking that if this was Tibet there would be prayer flags up high on all the peaks. And then I squinted, and I could see them: the American version of the Tibetan prayer flags - fences.

Wow. What a beautiful ride

We rode the long way out of Montery today (yesterday, now), and I was happy to do it. I had a really bad vibe from the town, from the moment we rode in. (We did meet some nice people at the campsite, of course. It was a pleasure to chat with Kathy and Sam. Two more nice, smart, funny Canadians that we've met at campsites on this trip - so far. We were camped next to some young German girls who spoke English very well last night...)
17 Mile Drive was beautiful (even though I found the contrast between Pebble Beach and Veterans Memorial Park hard to swallow).
But then man, once we were finally out of the t-shirt shops of Carmel (the new "Carmel Mission"!) The real ride began. And it was awesome. Sunny day with a tailwind. Great views. And we saw sea otters, seals, whales, and even CA condors! Crazy!
With the strong tailwind and sunny weather we decided to push on beyond Big Sur (which was FULL - on a Thursday in late March. Spring break maybe?) And made it all the way to Lime Kiln SP. Lotsa eating and a great sunset over the Pacific (and a hot shower)
Maybe 70 miles?
Nearly 5,000 feet of climbing.
Tired.

And not even a whisper of cell reception at Lime Kiln SP.

Everything for the traveler

And even cell reception?!

Hey Heidi! Go grab some sundries, tout de suite!

Wow. Is the CA coast beautiful.

Really.
Awesome.

And yes, we have been lucky with the weather, no doubt.

If we have reception from the campground we will post some photos...

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Wow, what a beautiful road from Carmel in to Big Sur

Hope to post some photos tonight...

And an almost scary tailwind, it was so strong at times!

Do not ask for whom the bell tolls

It tolls for thee (indigenous people of the CA)
In Carmel, and hearing the Mission bell ringing.
And I've been reading about what the Spanish did to the people here before them (before the Americans took over; and kept it going, on steroids) - and it was ugly. Religious persecution, Smallpox, better weaponry and a more belligerent attitude; plus a radically different "property" conceptualization. Ugly.
The Yurok and Miwok didn't stand a chance.
And neither did the redwoods, salmon, sea otters or other critters - until now, when we realize that we have nearly wiped them all out. At least we stop when there is 5% left. One good thing you can say about our culture, I guess.

Makes me thing of Mel Brooks' "History of the World, Part 1" - "it's good to be the King!" (of Spain...in this case.)

Re: It's 12pm and we've already

It's 12pm and we've already eaten double portions of oatmeal, a cliff bar, a whole package of shot blocks, and a huge gyro sandwich. Its the first time this morning I can say I am not hungry ... not that it'll last.
Some times it feels like we spend most of our time pursuing food.
-----Original Message-----
From: "Heidi Ploeg" <ploeg.heidi@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 19:06:08
To: <go@blogger.com>
Reply-To: ploeg.heidi@gmail.com
Subject: It's 12pm and we've already

It's 12pm and we've already

Do not cry for me, Pebble Beach

17 mile road is beautiful; glad we biked the extra miles to see the coast along that section between Monterey and Carmel.

I heard it might cost $500 to play a round of golf along that coast. And I found that shocking. Then I realized that it likely always gets deducted off taxable income as a business expense.

I understand Boehner loves to play golf; and I can imagine he and Cantor being entertained by a bunch of rich white guys, and then going on national television after a fine dinner and the most expensive CA wine - and complaining that the poor "don't pay any taxes; don't have any skin in the game".

And that is what makes me so sad about my country: such wealth, such beauty - and such unimaginable avarice.

(and, I might add, un-Christian behavior and policy, ironically - given that the likes of Ryan are so obsessed with the Bible - when it comes to women's reproductive health anyway.)

Seaside-Monterey-Point Joe!

Saw some sea otters too!

Happy Birthday Laura!

We wish you were with us this morning and we wish you a great day!

Wake up call, as expected

It is Veteran's Memorial Park, of course. So the 7am loudspeaker call just went out. And it nicely bookended the 10pm loudspeaker from last night.

And it was better than the 7am "Git to werk!" bell/alarm when we were camped beside the agribusiness yesterday; and then the 9:30am "OK. You can use the portapotty now" bell over the fields full of immigrants, laboring in the "Strawberry Fields (going on) Forever"...

Sign, sign, everywhere a sign

Not so many of them as funny as this one, of course.

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

It is surprisingly hard to recycle in CA

This is just a plastic lid from an MSR Isopro gas can (not ours) in the Hiker/Biker campground at Sunset Beach SP (where it is surprisingly hard to get to the beach; and it is raining, so no sunset for us tonight). But, in general, in CA it has been really hard to recycle. And I don't mean the alkaline batteries Andy/Mary took for us; I mean plastic beverage bottles, cans, you know, the basic friggin' stuff.
When we're up Nort', in da UP, eh, I figure "there aren't enough garbage producing humans to create a market for recycling". But in freakin' CA?! There are as many bipedal hominids as in the other "CA"! (Canada)
Maybe it's just another case of "the legislature represents big business, not the citizen"? (Like with CA's ballot initiative to legalize marijuana, where the only legal recreational drug industry [alcohol] spent $9 Million defeating it.)
Or maybe CA just want MORE plastic to end up in the Pacific Gyre?

(For extra credit search "Pacific Gyre" and "The Majestic Plastic Bag" on the intertubes; for grad level credit search and watch the video about the Pacific islands [Midway?] And birds dying of ingesting our plastic. Yours; and mine.)

Time to go finish that Sapporo beer (imported, from Guelph, Ontario!), and get outta the rain (I'm huddled under a pine tree, right next to a guy plowing a field on this huge agribusiness plot right behind our tent; I know how hard farmers work, and it has me worried - for my sleep tonight!)

Sunset Beach all to ourselves ...

but no sunset on this cloudy evening.

We found Wilder's ranch!

Looks like a nice place for a cool cat to retire...

And then just a few miles down the road

Sad.

Can we do better, America?
Are we truly "the greatest nation on Earth?"
Or is that just jingoistic lip service in Presidential election years?

Look up how much the Eisenhower Interstate system cost. And then tell me "we can't afford" safe shoulders for Americans who walk and/or bike.
Go ahead.
Look how much we spend on road building, maintenance, oil corp subsidies, motor vehicle corp bailouts every decade or so.
Then tell me "we can't afford it".
Go ahead. I dare you.

Yes you can

Share the road

Outside Santa Cruz, in front of an organic farm

Whales!

Costanoa KOA comfort station

The benefits of off-season touring

We've really enjoyed travelling in everyone's else off-season. The roads are quiet, the drivers are patient, and the campsites are empty. Last night we stayed at a a KOA (no State Parks close to here) with "Comfort Stations" which are fancy bathrooms. They include warm showers, hot water, heated floors, a sauna, electrical outlets and a fireplace. We're the only ones here and have enjoyed all the offered facilities, except the sauna (we got too tired after dinner).
A SP campsite costs $5/person and this KOA costs $24.50 for a tent ($30 on the weekend), so its not cheap camping. But off season, with nobody else here, it feels luxurious.

Monday, March 18, 2013

When we get home

I am thinking more and more that when we get home I have to clean up my crap and the basement to make it more "visitor friendly." So many people are taking us in and letting us stay with them that I think I need to make our place better at accommodating guests, more comfortably. (Maybe get a proper bed for the basement, rather than the futon that is there now? Maybe knock out a wall upstairs to make one of the three small bedrooms bigger? Who knows?)
Not that we haven't had guests already.
And not that anybody really wants to visit the Flatwest.
But just in case...
We can return the favor.

Thanks David!

For a great time in and tour of San Fran. Good food, beer, biking and just "being a tourist". Thanks.

Tone deaf

If some dumb MF buzzes you or gives you the inventive "Faggot!" or "Pussy!" "Doppler ass" just tell them to grab their Saturday night best YSL underwear, put (only) it on and meet you at the beginning of any climb on CA Hwy 1 with construction on it with a loaded touring bike - we'll see who's cryin' for mommy and who's the "pussy" at the top!

Don't just stand there Fatso
Bust a move!

South Coastside- beach bums

Headin' South again
More beautiful coastline and cool birds