Saturday, May 25, 2013

"Indian Treaty"

I made the mistake of stopping at the "Choctaw Boundary" Historical Marker.

"...thus clearing for white settlement all areas of the three states crossed by the Natchez Trace."

That's some "treaty" we signed, eh?

So, I figure, we have no moral standing to complain about what the Han Chinese and the Communist Party of China, along with the People's Liberation Army, are doing to the Tibetan people, sadly.

Friday, May 24, 2013

A nice change from noodles and tuna at the campsite!

Snakes and alligators

Most of the ride along the Natchez Trace has been peaceful and stress free. its a parkway so no commercial vehicles, not a lot of on ramps, a low speed limit, and low traffic. Yesterday I even accidentally ran into Greg's real wheel, because I was just dreaming and not paying attention to biking.

The Natchez Trace was formed over 100's of years of people travelling by foot and horse between Natchez (on the Mississippi) and Memphis. There are many places where you can still see the deep trough left from all the different travels over so many years. The Cypress and Tupelo forest we visited was also a magical place.

And then there are the alligators and snakes! I've never seen an alligator before, let alone in the river alongside our campsite. Apparently the long black snake I saw today is harmless except for its smell, but we were also warned (again) that we are in rattle snake country, "they are as big as my arm" (and he didn't mean a cyclist's arm).

Dude, you wanna go fishin'?

You packin' heat?!

We were bikin' along the Ross Barnett Reservoir today in M iss iss ipp i
And I was idly thinkin', about 5 hours into "the pedaling", "Hey, those lilly pads look pretty good fer bass fishin'" as we crossed a little inlet from the reservoir, down here near Jackson, MS.

Then I saw him.

Holy cats!

Swimmin' up the 6 foot wide inlet, between the lilly pads, casual as a Sunday stroll after dinner
A 10 foot gator.

Damn.

I guess when you go bass fishin' in Mississippi you might wanna pack a little heat, just in case.

Tupelo and Cypress tree forest

One of the ubiquitous

Raccoon feeders round here...

The Natchez Trace Parkway is awesome

Beautiful, quiet road; good road surface
Gradual grades (max has been about 5%)
Speed limit a mere 50 mph for motorized traffic
Bike Route signs, and notices to motorists to look out for cyclists

So far the only bad things are the non-critter-proof garbage cans (and raccoons, and garbage strewn all over the place; and the huge backlog of work that needs to be done on the NPS campgrounds)
And the fact that our friends Andy and Laura aren't here to ride it with us. I think they'd love it!

For folks in the Ontario/Quebec area, think Gatineau Park - but not as steep hills, and basically a straight line, heading Northeast...

Nice, big trees, grasslands, corn, some cows, horses, birds, historic spots. An awesome ride so far.

Pay yer damn taxes, Apple, Incorporated

The same goes for Google
And Starbucks
And Boeing
And...

The National Park Service does NOT have critter proof garbage cans (on the Natchez Trace Parkway)
And they could really use them, trust me.

What the NPS does have, thanks to years of budget cuts (brought on by revenue problems - largely from 'corporate people' shirking their responsibility [over the last 3 or 4 decades] - and the "tax cut and spend" policies, from the Republicans, especially [Reagan and W; and the tax cuts have gone primarily to the "Romney-class" Americans among us - and I guess they don't use the National Parks, so they wouldn't even know) is:
Household-style garbage cans - that the raccoons love!
People burning their garbage in fire pits, including their plastic - can you say "persistent carcinogens"? I can.
Broken and closed restrooms
Broken and closed water taps/fountains
Broken windows in the "welcome" building
(The repair backup is huge)
No staff on hand to help park visitors

'Corporate people' are ugly.
And while you might "love" your I-phone, 'corporate people' will never love you back.

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Chris! I keep meanin' to tell ya

We finally figered out how to set thuh tent up.
You remember that tight cross pole?
Well it has gotten looser, over the months; just like all of us.
And then we figured out that with those two clips, side by side, in the very middle of the tent - well, you don't have to get all fancy like we were tryin' to be an clip one of 'em on the main arch pole an one on the cross pole. You just clip both of them on the main arch - and run the cross pole over the top arch, right between them two clips attached to the main pole. It holds the cross pole in place, enuf. And it's less tite on the cross pole then too. Easier to get it in the hole. And Chris, I know you know what I'm talkin' about here, ya know?
Hell, we figered that som'bitch out...
oh, a coupla days ago?

Well anyhow, I figured since you were thar at the very inception of us settin' 'er up the wrong way you'd be glad to hear that, well, we finally figered 'er out.

See ya later, y'all!

Up next? Mississippi.

We'll be leavin' Louisiana behind in the mornin', headin' East from Vidalia over the mighty Mississippi River to Natchez, MS.
Then we'll be biking along ~400 miles of the Natchez Trace; pert near the entire length. And it'll take us plumb across the state, over to the NW corner of Alabama, and into TN. We've heard that it is beautiful; that commercial trucks are not allowed on it. I think the speed limit for motorized vehicles might even be a mere 45 mph? That will seem down right pedestrian, esp compared to the 70 mph on the "small" highways that we've been bikin' on (80 mph on the Interstate). Anyway, I was staring at the National Park Service map of it today, and I'm pretty excited.

I do believe we'll be crossing "The Trail of Tears"; maybe even more than once (there are several routes that we drove the indigenous peoples across, like so many branded cattle, "to clear the land for settlers" - as if there weren't any humans settled on the land when we got here). And one of the things that I have been most impressed with, other than the good-naturedness of nearly everyone we've met, is the absolute destruction of the tribes that were here before the Spanish, then the Spanish-Mexicans, and finally, before the Americans (remember, AZ and NM have been states for a mere 100 years. The nastiness of the Spanish, in particular, has been kinda shocking. The ruthless murdering, stealing, and destruction is the furthest thing from "civilized" that I can imagine. I can only imagine how distraught, guilty and repentant the King of Spain must feel; the angst of the Spanish Catholics and the Pope over the suffering and deaths because of their actions. It's shocking, really.) So sad. I'll try to resist stopping at too many of the "Historical Markers." I know y'all don't wanna here about it...

The people, the landscape, the wildlife, and the food continue to impress. The motorists have been mostly observant and courteous. But I'll tell ya, the absolute lack of infrastructure for walking and biking has also made a huge (and I don't mean obese; but that could be said about it too) impression. We have truly become a land of oil addicts and motor vehicle aficionados - to the exclusion of all other simpler, healthier, quieter, cheaper forms of transportation. And we are paying for it in more ways than we realize.

Ride yer bike.
Walk yer feet.
It'll make ya feel better.
Today, and tomorrow.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Dude! Down by the boat launch!

Was eatin' some catfish strips down by the Mississippi, which is way high, when I noticed somethin' floatin' in a big eddy behind the line of trees that normally make up the riverbank.
Was on my way to take a photo of a passing train when a dude whistled me over.
The "log" had lowered itself in the water so that now only its "head" was visible.
I got a photo of that head. He showed me his photo of "the log".
He said he thought it was 12 feet long.
Dang!
That's a pretty big alligator
Esp for a river that doesn't normally have alligators (usually they are in the stagnant, warmer backwaters, which are flooded right now; what with all the snowmelt and heavy rain upstream)

And the kick of it was
The gator was less than 100 feet from the public boat launch.
And there were little kids runnin' on the "riverwalk", not 30 feet from the (new, temporary) "shore".

"Yeah, go ahead Bill; just walk in the water there and help me get this boat up on the launch, will ya?"

Youch!

If you blow up my photo of the head of that "log" you can clearly see its eye, starin' at ... you.
(Hope to get it uploaded, tonight, in the tent.)

Disappointments

There really have been very few disappointments for me on this whole, crazy trip.
But I have to say that I am missing our friend rhae; and what I imagine would have been her plan to show us around Lafayette, LA, and the good music and food that would no doubt have accompanied that adventure.
Maybe we'll just have to come back!

Disappointments

There really have been very few disappointments for me on this whole, crazy trip.
But I have to say that I am missing our friend rhae; and what I imagine would have been her plan to show us around Lafayette, LA, and the good music and food that would no doubt have accompanied that adventure.
Maybe we'll just have to come back!

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Thank God Almighty, We Are Headin' North at Last

Well, after the month of biking South on the Pacific Coast in March
Then biking East from San Diego on the Southern Tier for April and the first 3 weeks of May
We have finally turned North.
At last.
We're still a LONG way from home, but at least it feels like we're finally headin' in the right direction...

It was a little sad turnin' off the Southern Tier this mornin'; in the middle of nowhere, no one around.
When we took our little "shortcut" up LA 15 along the West side of the mighty Mississippi to Vidalia. There was not much between the early bridge that had a "no bikes" sign on it (and then an official "bike route" sign right after the bridge too. Weird. And it is a recommended route on the LA Bike Map. The "no bikes" sign must be to make the lawyers and insurance company happy, I reckon.) and that little empty church that we made it to after about 70 miles, parched, out of water, and suffering in the 90 degree heat with the sun blazin' down. So we found an outside faucet and our gravity (water) filter and drank a bunch o water before pickin' up some trash round the place as a sort of thank you.

I was thinkin' I'd listen to and post a link to that famous speech by MLK, but I feel a little self-conscious pullin' it up here in the RV park with the (LA and) MS flag(s) flyin' - you know, the one with the Confederate flag still embedded in it...

Might be t-storms tonight and/or tomorrow. Tenting tonight, not sure about tomorrow - other than I'd like a day off, and we might get wet. Then it'll be over the Mississippi river and into Natchez, MS, and on up the Natchez Trace. Worried about campsites what with the Memorial Day weekend comin' up. Hope we don't end up stranded on the side of the road.
But then again, the last time that happened (in Pismo Beach, CA) we ran into Elicia and Joe and salvaged a pretty good time out of it!

U'm tired

Another 80 mile day with the 80 pound bikes
90'F
Tired

Monday, May 20, 2013

We are changing our route a bit

After reading the review below and advice from a woman we met in Cottonport, we are staying a little off route in Marksville instead of Simmesport. Its hard to know when we are getting good advice, but this time we decided we didn't want to find out.

"My son and I finished an unsupported cross country bike trip this summer. It took us along the southern tier of the USA and we followed a route provided by Adventure Cycling. It was a beautiful ride and a great adventure but it often took us to places with few to no lodging opportunities. When in Simmesport, La the Sportsman Motel was the only place for 50 miles in either direction. It was one of the most memorable nights of our trip. Simmesport was perhaps the poorest, shadiest (not because of the trees) and scary places we passed through on our entire 2600 mile trip. We brought mace on our trip because when biking you are frequently chased by dogs, and its helpful to have mace velcro'd to the bike just in case. When staying at the Sportsman Motel we actually slept with the mace next to our bed - unfortunately not because of the dogs but because of the people around town. The "convenience" store next door has a larger selection of (drug) smoking pipes than soda or potato chips. If you are biking across America or run out of gas in Simmesport LA, I would recommend the Sportman Motel - the only place to stay - literally!"

Turtle

Alligator!

Alligator!

Man, I wish my camera was working!

Alligators and turtles, everywhere!

Exciting morning in Louisiana!

The day started normally, coffee, oatmeal, and packing up, and then we started biking out of Chicot SP. The way out is actuallu through the park so we had a nice ride through a luscious forest on a quiet paved road. And then we saw our first alligator! The road went over a bridge, over a bayou with trees growing in the water, with cranes, turtles and yes, alligaors! I'm glad I didn't know about the alligators before we went to bed.
The excitement continued when we went to the small town post office just outside the park to send our cold weather gear back home. When I put my gear on the counter, I felt a sting and all of a sudden there was a huge caterpillar sitting on the counter next to my gear. It must have hitched a ride from the camp ground. The lady at the post office was as surprised as I was. She said it was a stinging caterpillar, and seemed surprised I'd never seen one before.

Now we are eating chinese food in a small town the road. Its takeout only, but they set up a table so we could eat inside (in the air conditioning). We must look weird to the other customers coming in for pickup.

Its not even noon and we've already seen so much and met so many people!

Sunday, May 19, 2013

A big thank you to Greg!

This post is long over due. In case you were wondering, Greg has been riding out front for 99.99% of the time. My new nickname for him is Master Draft. A trip like this is a once in a life time experience, and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have done it on my own. Plenty of people do, but - I don't think I would or could. Its more than just blocking the wind for me all day (although that is huge!), its having someone to share the experience with, and to have someone take care of or look out for you when you need it. Even the small things, like making coffee in the morning. Thank you Greg!!

It only took over 3000 miles of bike touring

It only took over 3000 miles of bike touring, but I am a new fan of chamois cream. This isn't my first time biking by any means, but until today I didn't really have a need or understanding for chamois cream. After yesterday (75 miles) of hot and humid riding by butt started to chafe. Today, after 80 miles and "euro style" chamois cream, NO CHAFING! I'm not a new cyclist but I am a new fan of chamois cream.

Robert Kennedy

Saw a road named after the assassinated rich, white dude from MA today, upon entering the poor side of Ville Platte, LA (yes, NOT Platteville, WI). Then a street named after his more famous brother.
And for the first time I thought of them as being kinda like Frank and Andy Schleck, the bike racing brothers who are inseparable - and each other's best teammate. Now, this was near then of a long, hot, humid day into a brutal wind (15 - 25 mph, mostly cross wind) where I was afraid in the morning, then resigned to my fate/duty round lunch, then determined to just keep turnin' the pedals over, no matter how hard or boring it was...so I know it is weird; but it is what it is. The mind goes to strange places over 5+ hours of pedaling, especially when the wind makes conversation difficult.
And then we rode through some poor Louisiana neighborhoods where a white dude could reasonably be a little concerned for his safety. And I thought about Bobby, and how he visited poor neighborhoods in the deep south (of 'Merica!) And how it really effected him; how he wanted to do something, anything, to help his fellow Americans. Even the poor ones, even the dark ones. And how, it seems, whenever you want to or try to help poor people you get killed. You get killed in "mysterious circumstances". You get killed by the CIA. You get killed by "School of the Americas" trained (in Georgia, by Americans) right-wing mercenaries in Central or South America.
The thing that pulled me out of my random thoughts about Bobby, about history, about poor people and powerful people?
A woman in the passenger seat of a car in the poor neighborhood of Ville Platte who yelled to us as we biked by
"God bless y'all!"

We stayed in teepee last night!

We had the best accommodations last night. Just east of De Ridder we stayed at a small RV park/camp ground and a small hobby farm, Plesant Hill Park. We were going to tent there, but we were very easily convinced to take advantage of the teepee accommodation with A/C, beds, and refrigerator. We also had access to the kitchen (for cyclists only), laundry and showers.

After using all the facilities and a nap we met some of the animals. There were the 2 donkeys, Jack and Daniel, the two mini horses Bonny and Clyde, two baby mini horses, 4 mini cows, 3 alpaca (somoa, al, and ?), 3 goats (blue berry, and ?), 5 ducks and 3 cats (one with little tiny kittens). The owner, Monica, was from Austria originally and was proud to introduce us to the farm family. In the kitchen she keeps a guest book of all the cyclists she has hosted. We only made it through the back half of the entries before we started falling asleep and had to go to bed. On the wall in the kitchen was a certificate from ACA acknowledging Monica's generous accommodation for cyclists. I'm so glad we found Monica's teepee (designed, built and decorated by Monica).

"How y'all doin'?"

"I said How Y'all Doin'?!!!
Muh name's 'Bumpy DeBris'
And I'll be up here all day
Pointin' out obstacles in yer path
And pushin' that nasty crosswind outta yer way
On yer road to righteousness..."

I wuz thinkin' this mornin'
That I wuz surprised how bad the roads are here in Louisiana
What with all the oil money down here
But then I remembered that
We give oil companies tax money ($4 Billion/year)
They don't give us tax money
(To pay for things like roads)

Then we passed a plantation called "Sugar" somethin'
And I thought of Django Unchained, the movie, and the plantation called "Sugarland" or somethin'

And I realized that not much has changed since the Europeans came here with their African slaves and wiped out the humans they found here (Atakapa, here in LA)
Exterminators
Still lots of 'em in TX esp
Makes me think about Tom Delay
Is he in jail yet?
Or still out fightin' his conviction?
I lost track of him after Dancin' with the Stars

Anyway, I guess it is STILL just a coupla rich white guys, hoardin' all the money fer themselves...

Freedom!
It really never has been about "freedom"; unless you mean to exploit any people or place that we damn well please.
And now we've got middle class white people funded by the likes of the Koch brothers and their "grasstops" groups like "the tea party" complainin' about losin' their freedom?
Frickin' hilarious.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?gl=US&hl=en&client=mv-google&v=lUPMjC9mq5Y

The people you meet while bike touring are awesome.
It's the American and state govt's and the big business and wealthy that they actually represent that suck.

I keep hearin' that creepy British actor's voice in my head

Every time I see a plastic bag blow across the street

"Ah, the majestic plastic bag..."

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GLgh9h2ePYw&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DGLgh9h2ePYw