Friday, April 12, 2013

Picket Post Mountain

Sitting here in the Rest Area in Superior, AZ (along the Jefferson Davis memorial highway - I almost went back and took a photo after we biked past the monument today as we were leaving Apache Junction, but I did not - so I can't be sure about the details. Sorry.) at a picnic table in the shade, and Heidi and I can barely converse with the noise from all the passing motor bikes - thinking about this monument in the bad phone photo, and my kind of continuing shock of realizing that the high school history we were all taught is more of a "story" than actual history. It is designed to make us feel good, to be proud; to gloss over the genocide, theft and slavery that helped build this nation.
The American west is exactly like the Chinese west, only we got there 150 years before they did.
In this case the army was protecting "the mining magnate", as it usually does. The people who's land was taken were not happy about it. In the case of this place, the Apaches raided the camps of the people extracting riches from their ancestral lands. In Tibet the Buddhists self-immolate in protest.

We'll be biking near the Coolidge Dam tomorrow and so I was reading about it last night. It's on an "Indian" reservation (I always figured we westerners would want to start calling the humans we found here when we got here by a different name - because it is a constant reminder of how bad we once were at navigating - but it is simpler than trying to learn all those tribe names, I guess?) The dam covered up sacred burial grounds and? Old camps of Geronimo, from which he raided "the mining magnates" and the army protecting them. In Tibet? They drilled a hole through a mountain to drain a (sacred Tibetan) lake to generate electricity - so the People's Liberation Army can have electricity at their bases/posts/camps. (What was the name of that lake again? Heidi? Leone? Janice? It was the one on the way to Chomolongma, where we saw the tiny scorpion among the rocks on the shore.) Beijing's hand-picked monk (Panchen Lama? Similar to but different than the Dalai Lama.) even started speaking against the draining, and suddenly he disappeared, only to reappear and die, some time shortly after being released. It is illegal to post photos of the Dalai Lama in Tibet; but there are photos of this Panchen Lama everywhere - hand picked by the CPC, but before he died he redeemed himself in the people's eyes; and Beijing can't protest too loudly photos of their own hand picked man.

So we had the Catholic Missions, the mining magnates, the cattle ranchers (after we wiped out the bison - to wipe out the people who depended on them, "slyly") and the US Army. The Chinese have their religion too - the Communist Party of China. And their army, the awesome "doublespeak" People's Liberation Army. And believe you me, the Chinese are on their very own Manifest Destiny right now - only they are not wiping out the Tibetans by driving them off their land, pushing them west, killing all the yaks, and giving them blankets with small pox on them; instead they are doing all the railroad building, mining, nuclear waste storage etc right beside and among the Tibetans. And why do the PLA soldiers carry fire extinguishers? So if a Tibetan tries to self-immolate they may be able to put them out - and "re-educate" them. Remind you of the book "1984" anyone? How about "Brave New World"?
As the notes from the meeting between Mao and Stalin show (in 1951? At the conclusion of WWII), Mao asked to continue using the Soviet air power that had been on loan to invade Tibet and Stalin agreed, saying "the Tibetans need to be subdued".

Of course, the CIA had training camps in Tibet, before the failed 1959 Tibetan uprising. And when we were in Tibet about a year and a half ago we were some of the first westerners let in after the "autonomous region" was done the month long celebration of "the peaceful liberation of Tibet". They were still tearing down the CPC platform in front of the Potala Palace when we were there, and the line of tanks exiting Lhasa went on for over 15 minutes, heading back to one of their bases outside town - but we were not allowed to take photos of soldiers.

We have relocated to the RV park, right beside the highway. And I'm staring across the asphalt at an old mine and a huge tailings pile; while Air Force jets roar overhead, practicing - and reminding everyone "who's the boss, around here, pardner."

It was probably a good thing Carter lost to Reagan, and so the American experiment with photovoltaic panels on the roof of the Whitehouse, "human rights" focus, and "peace" talks were replaced with a more "normal" focus on pride and results (Arms for hostages? Sure! Iran-contra affair? They're "freedom fighters!") When the US protests "human rights" abuses in China, remember, it is like the pot calling the kettle black. We got "there" first, and we killed a lot more people and stole a lot more land than the Chinese.

So maybe I'll skip biking past the (President Calvin) Coolidge Dam tomorrow. I saw enough monuments to Mao in China to last me quite a while, thank you very much.

7 comments:

  1. Anyway, I know it is in effect all imaginary water in the bone dry wash under the highway bridge now, but maybe we can be a little more honest with ourselves and each other.
    And if we can spend millions of dollars to flood sacred burial sites? Maybe we can spend millions trying to make it right, in some small ways, too.
    Maybe.
    But I won't hold my breath, don't worry.

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  2. Greg, I was thinking a lot about the idea of the "story" we tell ourselves as history this week as well while we were hanging out in Williamsburg, VA. A lot of white-washing our colonial roots and the area's connection to slavery. I avoided most of the tourist events because I couldn't stomach the idea of hearing this propaganda perpetuated, but a few were unavoidable. While on the campus of the College of William and Mary, they showed the original building built to "teach" "Indians" how to be "civilized". Unbelievable. Little to no mention of kids being torn from their families, ripping away their culture and everything they know in the world, and being shamed, all to allow the dominance of the settlers who felt they had the right to take the land. - Shawn

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  3. Thanks Shawn.

    And I keep thinking about that "red scare" movie that was popular with...some people .. called "Red Dawn"; the 1984 version. Back in the "proud" days of Reagan. And how, in reality, WE were the Communists (so many times in our brief history) and the Apaches were the "Wolverines!" So I guess that makes Patrick Swayze the Geronimo?

    Do I understand that someone had the bad, profitable sense to remake that awful movie?

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  4. I think the lake you are refering to in Tibet is Yamzcho Yumco Lake where the lake was shaped like a scorpion and then we saw a scorpion! They were building a hydro electric damn. Sorry if the name of the lake is not spelled correctly. We also so black necked cranes there. Down the road from there was my buddy at the Barley Mill! So enjoyed him and his honesty!!

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  5. Yes, and he mentioned Norman Bethun, when we told him we were Canadians. I regret not asking him for his opinion of the famous Canadian who invented a way to transport and transfuse blood, and supported causes against fascism including supporting the Red Army. Do Tibetans think Dr. Bethun was a hero?

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  6. I do like it when Greg goes on a rant. You are wise, insightful. I'm assuming you both have heard of/ read Howard Zinn's History of the U.S.? More accurate and far more interesting!

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  7. Paul - that is one of many books that I have started, found interesting, and had to put down - because it is hard to take it all in; too deprerssing. Then I go ride my bike again and all is right with the world.
    Till I read another chapter of one of those "truth telling" books - and have to go ride my bike again!

    And, as you know, it is really hard to hear the President (Bush v.2 I am thinking of in this example; but many - no all - Presidents do similar things) and the echo chamber mass media say and repeat ad nauseum things like "they hate us for our freedom."
    Bull shit.

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